The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a comprehensive Standard that covers all aspects of the production of all natural fibers including processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exportation, importation and distribution. The final products may include, but are not limited to fiber products, yarns, fabrics and apparel.
The original goal of the GOTS was "to define world-wide recognised requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer". By creating an international, uniform Standard, the GOTS working group sought to enable organic textile manufacturers and marketers to export their goods anywhere in the world with one universally-accepted organic certification.
In order for a textile product to be labeled as "organic" or "organic - in conversion" under GOTS, it must contain at least 95% (excluding non-textile accessories) certified organic fibers OR "in conversion" fibers (GOTS defines "in conversion" fibers as "A product from an operation or portion thereof, which has completed at least 12 months under organic management and is under the supervision of a certification body."). The remaining 5% may contain non-organic fibers, natural or synthetic (from a GOTS approved list of synthetic fibers), but may not contain any conventional fibers of the same material that is used in organic quality as the rest of the product (for example, a manufacturer may not use 95% organic cotton and 5% conventional cotton, but 95% organic cotton and 5% hemp would be acceptable).
In order for a textile product to be labeled as "made with x% organic materials" or "made with x% organic - in conversion materials" under GOTS, it must contain 70%-95% (excluding non-textile accessories) certified organic fibers OR "in conversion" fibers. Up to 10% of the remaining 30% of the fibers may be regenerated/recycled or synthetic fibers (from a GOTS approved list of synthetic fibers), but none of the 30% may be from conventional fibers of the same material that is used in organic quality as the rest of the product.
Also of note are the GOTS restrictions/prohibitions on a variety of chemicals of concern, including formaldehyde (prohibited), GMOs (prohibited), phenols like PCP and TCP (prohibited), heavy metals (prohibited with a general exception for iron and specific limits on allowable amounts of copper in dyes), and chlorine bleaches (prohibited).
For accessories, GOTS does allow both natural and synthetic materials to be used for sewing thread, elastic bands and yarns, and seam bindings. Only natural materials may be used for embroidery yarns, appliques, linings/pockets, and labels. In general, all accessories must be free of PVC, nickel and chrome.
Of great significance is the GOTS inclusion of labor standards. For example, living wages must be paid, child labor is explicitly prohibited, and working conditions must be safe and hygienic.
For more information, see the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) website. |
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